Taking apart our 1969 Camaro Z/28's exterior body panels is a tad more challenging than removing her interior. Still, we were up for the challenge, as you can see from the lead photo. Our Z/28 looks like a full-size scale model, with the exterior items all laid out as if they'd just been removed from one of those plastic scale car model trees. Follow along with the step-by-step guide, so you can get your Camaro looking like a full-size scale model like ours!
Time to Deconstruct
Above: 1) Start at the front by removing the front bumper bolts. 2) With the bumper bolts removed, the bumper can be pulled away from the Camaro.
Above: 3) The bumper brackets wrap around the lower grille, so the brackets must be removed prior to removing the grille. The brackets are two-piece, so they can be unbolted from the frame (pictured) or the front section can be separated from the rear section that attaches to the frame.
Above: 4) The front section of each bumper bracket is attached with a pair of bolts. 5) Remove the plastic headlight bezels.
Above: 6) Pop out the chrome trim that attaches to the front of the grille. 7) Remove the row of screws along the top of the grille and the bolts along the bottom.
Above: 8) With the grille fasteners removed, slide the grille out of the grille opening. Our grille was cracked, so we'll replace it with a new grille when the car is reassembled. 9) After removing the headlights, your Camaro front end should look something like this.
Above: 10) With the grille out of the way, the front fender emblems can be reached and removed easily. Remove the side marker lights on 1968-69 models, too. 11) The Camaro emblem on the front panel attaches with four tinnerman's nuts. Remove the nuts and slip the emblem out of the panel.
Above: 12) By replacing the tinnerman's nuts on the emblem studs, you'll know where to find them during reassembly. 13) To reach the nuts that attach the Camaro emblem to the front fender, remove the lower fender bolts and pull the fender away from the body. Of course, you can avoid this step if you're planning to remove the fenders.
Above: 14) At some point in our Z/28's past, a previous owner had installed racing-style hood pins. Removing the chrome plate does not get rid of the hole in the hood. It must be repaired later, or you can replace the hood. On our project car, we're adding the functional cowl induction hood, so the original hood, complete with hood pin holes, will be discarded. 15) Remove the cowl panel next, but first disconnect the windshield wiper motor wiring.
Above: 16) Remove the cowl panel attaching bolts along the front of the panel. 17) Pry off the windshield wipers.
Above: 18) Don't forget to remove these cowl panel attaching bolts that are hidden in the door pillar area. 19) With the attaching bolts removed, the cowl panel can be lifted away from the car and set aside in a safe location.
Above: 20) Remove the radio antenna from the passenger side fender. 21) Unbolt the hood from the hood hinges and find a helper to assist you in removing the hood.
Above: 22) To remove the front header panel, first remove the upper bolts that secure the panel to the hood latch support. 23) From under the panel, remove the lower hood latch securing bolts and the trio of bolts (on each side) that secure the header panel to the fenders.
Above: 24) Lift the header panel away from the car and store for refinishing later. 25) Unbolt the front valance panel, disconnect the turn signal wiring, and remove the valance from the car.
Above: 26) Before progressing into the fender removal, pop off the lower body molding. Don't forget to remove the front screws first. 27) Several hard-to-find bolts attach the fenders. First, remove the bolt located near the headlight bucket.
Above: 28) From inside the front wheel well, remove the upper wheel well-to-fender attaching bolt and washer. 29) Remove the three other bolts that secure the wheel well to the fender.
Above: 30) Remove the upper tender attaching bolts. 31) Remove the hood hinge assembly, then remove the lower fender-to-firewall bolt.
Above: 32) Retain the body spacers that are located at some bolt attaching spots. The spacers are used to align the fenders with the rest of the body, so you'll need them during the car's assembly. 33) After removing all of the fender bolts, lift the fender away from the car and store for future refinishing.
Above: 34) Remove the remainder of the wheel well attaching bolts and lift the wheel well from the car. Repeat the fender and wheel well removal steps on the opposite side of the Camaro (the driver's side in this case). 35) To remove the radiator support, first remove the bolts that attach the assembly to the front subframe. Since the radiator will come out with the support, disconnect the radiator hoses from the radiator.
Above: 36) Some of the front wiring harness attaches to the radiator support. Disconnect the wiring wherever possible and use a pair of needle-nose pliers to remove the harness attaching clips. 37) Lift the radiator support and radiator away from the car. The radiator can be removed and sent to a radiator shop for repairs, if needed. Otherwise, you can purchase a new one from Classic Industries, if your original radiator is too-far gone.
Above: 38) With the front end sheet metal stripped away, the engine is exposed for easy removal. 39) The engine and transmission can be pulled out as an assembly. Be sure to disconnect all wiring and hoses that run to the engine, including power steering and air conditioning lines.
Above: 40) Manual transmissions are durable, but you may want to have it checked out before reinstalling into the restored car later. if you aren't capable of inspecting or rebuilding the gearbox yourself, farm it out to a reputable shop. If you've got an automatic transmission, have it checked out and rebuilt if necessary. Or, if you're building a pro touring Camaro or restomod, you may wish to replace the transmission with a brand new five- or six-speed manual trans. 41) Disconnect the front wiring harness from its firewall connection and remove the harness from the car.
Above: 42) To remove the exterior door handles from the door, you'll need a large flathead screwdriver to insert into the door from the inside to pop off the large clip that secures the handle to the sheetmetal. 43) With the clip out of the door, you can see how the clip attaches.
Above: 44) Unbolt the pair of door hinges from the door pillar. 45) Then lift the door away from the car and set aside. The window mechanisms will be removed later for repairs and clean-up.
Above: 46) Remove the front windshield and the rear window. Start by using a window molding tool, available from any automotive parts supplier, to pull the window moldings away from their attaching clips. 47) A window sealer cutting tool comes in handy for separating the glass from the old sealer.
Above: 48) Carefully lift the glass out of the body opening and store the fragile glass safely. Inspect the glass for damage and plan to replace if necessary. Front windshields, in particular, are usually filled with small stone nicks.
Above: 49) Use a gasket scraper to peel the old window weatherstripping from the window edges. 50) With the weatherstripping and sealer removed, you can see the window molding clips. Save
them because you'll need to reuse them during the car's reassembly. If damaged, they can be purchased from most parts houses.
Above: 51) Moving to the rear of the car, remove the trunk emblem from the trunk deck lid. Our emblem was broken, so it will be replaced. 52) If the Camaro is equipped with a rear spoiler, remove it by unbolting the assembly from under the trunk deck lid.
Above: 53) Clean out the trunk by removing the spare tire, jack, trunk mat, old beverage cans, and whatever else turns up from the Camaro's past. 54) Remove the nuts that secure the taillights to the rear panel.
Above: 55) Pull the taillight assembly away from the rear panel and disconnect the wiring to remove the taillights from the car. 56) Disconnect the remaining wiring harness connections and remove the rear wiring harness from the trunk compartment.
Above: 57) The center bumper bolts can be found nestled inside this rear panel brace. 58) Don't forget to remove the bumper bolts located inside the rear quarter panels.
Above: 59) When the disassembly is completed, your Camaro should look something like this. In later stages of the restoration, the front subframe will be removed for more thorough cleaning and detailing, and the trunk deck will be removed for repairs or replacement. This photo may look very familiar to the more discerning Camaro mechanics, since it's also the lead photo. What goes around comes around - literally and figuratively. Stay tuned for the next installment on restoring a first generation, 1969 Chevrolet Camaro Z/28, same CI time, same Classic Industries website.
Classic Industries - The Source for Camaro Parts for 50+ Years!
Yes, you read that correctly. For more than 50 years, Classic Industries has been providing restoration, performance parts, and accessories for your Chevrolet Camaro. In fact, the company started business life as Classic Camaro. CI knows the Chevrolet Camaro inside and out, up and down, backwards and forwards, fast and slow, taken apart (as is the case above), and put all back together performing and looking better than factory new! We welcome the opportunity to help you find your restoration, performance parts, and accessories for your Chevrolet Camaro. Click the button below for a free Chevrolet Camaro Parts and Accessories Catalog.
Classic Industries Also Offers a Digital Camaro Catalog
While the printed Camaro catalog remains a popular choice among restorers, the digital version adds a layer of convenience and interactivity that’s perfect for today’s fast-paced workflows.
Learn More About Camaro History
Would you like to read more about GM's Camaro? Check out our previous articles below:
- Camaro History - More than 50 Years of Iconic Design
- A Restomod Built Right - 1967 Camaro RS/SS
- 1969 Camaro: A Perfect Blend of Classic Style and Modern Muscle
- Over 100 1st Generation Camaros Renewed & Still Counting
- 1967-2002 Camaro Production Numbers: First-Gen to Fourth-Gen
- DIY: How to Replace Camaro / Firebird Window Felts
- 1970-1981 2nd Gen Camaro - A European/American Styling Tour de Force
- Videos: Restoration v Restomod: Battling for the 1967-1981 Camaro’s Soul
- Top 10 Mistakes to Avoid When Restoring a 1967–1969 Camaro
- Transforming a 1971 Camaro into a Modern Pro-Touring Beast (3/4 rear photo below)
