Top 10 Restoration & Modification Mistakes on Ford Trucks 1932–1956

Ford’s light-duty trucks transitioned quickly from car-based haulers (1932–1947) to the first-generation F-Series (1948–1952) and the improved second generation (1953–1956, with the birth of the F-100). Collectors love them, builders customize them, and enthusiasts hot rod them. But whether you’re doing a faithful restoration, a period street rod, or a modernized restomod, the same 10 pitfalls keep showing up - with extra risks when blending old steel and new tech.

Above: Fresh out of high school, Colorado teen Otto Rhodes wasted no time wrenching on a ’53 Ford F-100 that would soon make custom-truck history. What started as a personal project turned into The Mountain Pearl - a clean, pearl-white stunner that went on to dominate the show scene. At its very first outing, the truck hauled home five trophies, and the wins just kept stacking up. More than just a showstopper, the F-100 earned its place in hot-rodding lore as the very first vehicle ever featured in full color in the pages of Hot Rod magazine (most photos courtesy of Mecum Auctions). The lead photo is of a 1934 Ford roadster phantom pickup hot rod hauler - illustration by famous Automotive Artist and Cartoonist, George Trosley (photo courtesy of the humble scribe - aka DBS).

1) Mixing Car and Truck Parts

• Restoration mistake: Using passenger-car trim, grilles, or fenders that don’t match truck-specific stampings.
• Street rod/hot rod risk: Many rodders graft car front clips under trucks. Done wrong, this kills proportion and stance.
• Restomod tip: Keep truck character - upgrade suspension with engineered kits (IFS, four-links) rather than random car parts.

Above: When you choose to customize or restomod a vintage vehicle -  like this 1956 Ford F-100 pickup - you run the risk of creating something that is off-putting to some or many. A photo sometimes shouts a thousand words - enough said.

2) Over-Restoring or Over-Customizing Finishes

• Restoration mistake: Show-gloss frames and chrome where paint should be.
• Street rod mistake: Too much billet and brightwork can make the truck lose its utilitarian roots.
• Restomod tip: Subtle OEM-plus finishes (powder-coated chassis, satin blacks, body-color inner fenders) balance authenticity and durability.

Above and below: Whenever you go the restomod, custom, or rat rod route, some folks simply won't like what you've done to their favorite year early Ford pickup truck. Consider what could be Wile E. Coyote's (image of what looks to be the famous cartoon character on the door panel) 1937 Ford rat rod pickup. Overall, this bad boy is beautiful. However, many would prefer installing a hopped up Ford flathead V8 or perhaps a 289, 302, or 351 cubic inch Ford V8 mill in such a cool machine - you know - a Ford in a Ford.

3) Botched Electrical Upgrades

• Restoration mistake: Half-done six-to-12-volt conversions fry gauges.
• Hot rod mistake: Sloppy wiring under the dash, no relays for high-draw accessories.
• Restomod tip: Use a modern fuse/relay box, route wiring cleanly, and match alternator output to your accessory load.

Above: Here's a Ford Flathead V8 engine within the engine bay of a 1940 Ford pickup truck. The electrical system is supposed to have been converted from a six-volt system to a 12-volt system. If you purchased this '40 Ford truck on Bring a Trailer (where it was purchased), you would likely want to have a professional auto electrician go over the truck's electrical system to make sure everything's up to snuff (photo courtesy of Bring a Trailer).

4) Wrong Badges & Identity Confusion

• Restoration mistake: F-1 parts on an F-3, or F-100 script on a 1949 truck.
• Hot rod twist: Builders sometimes “shave” emblems, losing the heritage.
• Restomod balance: De-badging is fine, but document what it started as (F-1, F-2, F-100, etc.) for resale value.

Above: Proper 1955 Ford F-100 hood side emblem - part # TR16721B

Above: Proper 1956 Ford F-100 hood side emblem - part # TR16720K

5) Bed Wood Done Wrong - or Not Done At All

Video:1944 Ford COE with Two GM V8 Engines & No Bed

• Restoration mistake: Exotic hardwoods and hidden bolts where painted planks and steel strips belong.
• Street rod issue: Glossy show beds crack when actually used.
• Restomod solution: Use modern hardwood finishes or composite underlays for durability but keep visible surfaces era appropriate.

6) Driveline Mismatches

Above and below: Here are two examples of well hopped up Ford flathead V8 mills in a couple 1936 Ford hot rod haulers. Offenhauser heads, an Offenhauser aluminum intake manifold, and two Stromberg one-barrel carbs, do the job quite well in warming up the reliable Ford powerplant that's mated to the stock three-speed manual transmission. There's no mismatched parts here. An electric fan serves to keep the flatty cool. Replace those four radiator hoses with something that looks and performs better, and you'd be all set. Below: Consider the flathead V8 in another 1936 Ford pickup. This one also is adorned with Offenhauser and Stromberg components, but there's also polished surfaces, proper radiator hoses comprised of polished stainless and rubber sleeves, and much more attention to detail. The engine below is backed by a five-speed manual, offering more high-speed cruising at low RPMs in fifth-gear overdrive.

Above: An example of a driveline match - This 1956 Ford F100 restomod street rod is well matched and well wrought, the perfect hot rod hauler for flying on land, as you'll see below.

• Restoration mistake: Mixing flathead V8 parts with Y-block mounts.
• Hot rod hazard: Installing a big modern V8 without reinforcing frame rails or upgrading brakes.
• Restomod tip: Engine swaps (Coyote, LS, modular Ford) need matched transmissions, mounts, cooling, and electronics - don’t shortcut.

Above and below: The 1956 Ford F100 has a Ford Coyote 5.0L (302 ci) V8 that's mated to a Tremec T56 Magnum six-speed manual transmission. A Getrag shift lever handles the precise shift changes. The bed is also tastefully renewed. Sublime.

7) Ignoring Brakes & Steering

• Restoration mistake: New shoes on tired drums.
• Street rod problem: Dropped axles without correcting steering geometry = bump steer.
• Restomod solution: Disc conversions, rack-and-pinion steering, and power brakes are great - if engineered as a system.

Video: The Wrenchmen - Brake Job on a 1948 Ford F1 - Done Right

8) Poor Cab & Body Alignment

Above and below: Notice the hood fit to the grille surround on these two 1936 Ford pickups? The beige over black truck above doesn't show the same spot on fitment as the gray over black pickup below. These old trucks take time and toil to restore well. Mind you, to be fair, the beige pickup could be an older restoration, but you can see the difference comparing the fit and finish of both trucks.

• Restoration mistake: Paint first, then discover cab leans.
• Street rod mistake: Chopping the top without reinforcing the cab twists the whole body.
• Restomod tip: Square the cab/bed/frame early. If channeling or sectioning, reinforce properly to keep doors from binding.

9) Glass & Seals Installed Incorrectly

• Restoration mistake: Using urethane on gasketed windshields.
• Street rod misstep: “Flush” glass installs that leak or warp proportions.
• Restomod tip: Custom one-piece glass looks clean, but make sure seals, vent deletes, and stainless fit are watertight.

Above: You'll find an article from the Classic Industries' news, tech, how-to archives on how to properly install the front and rear windshields on a 1969 Ford F-100.

10) Wheels & Tires That Ruin the Truck

• Restoration mistake: Wrong widths/offsets = poor handling.
• Hot rod issue: Oversized wheels or rubber-band tires upset stance and ride.
• Restomod balance: Wider wheels and radials improve safety - but maintain proportional sidewall height and truck stance.

Above and below: Compare the stock ride height 1940 Ford flathead V8 equipped truck with the two hot rod hauler 1940 Ford pickups below. The third 1940 Ford truck is so low in the front that there are rubbing/clearance issues with the fenders.

Era-Specific Notes

1932–1947 (Pre- & Post-War)

Above: 1932 Ford flathead V8 powered hot rod hauler

• Street rods often favor ’40–’41 cabs; don’t graft car fenders unless proportions are right.
• Restomods should reinforce early frames before adding modern power.
• Hot rods often remove beds - document before cutting rare metal.

1948–1952 (1st-Gen F-Series)

Above: 1952 Ford F-1 restored to stock

• Restorers: F-1 vs F-2/F-3 differences matter.
• Street rodders: Beware of “clip jobs” with car suspensions—use purpose-built IFS kits.
• Restomods: Add sound deadening and modern seating for comfort; wiring harness upgrades are a must.

1953–1956 (2nd-Gen F-Series)

Above: 1956 Ford F-100 highly restomodded hot rod hauler

• Restorers: Know when the F-100 replaced the F-1, and when 12V systems arrived.
• Hot rodders: ’56 is a favorite chop-top truck; keep proportions balanced.
• Restomods: These cabs accept modern drivetrains more easily - don’t skimp on brakes, steering, or frame reinforcement.

Final Word

Whether you’re restoring, restomodding, or street or hot rodding, the key mistake is ignoring the truck’s identity. Each era has unique cues, proportions, and strengths. Respecting those while choosing your path - factory fresh, period hot rod, or modernized driver - means you’ll avoid costly do-overs and build something that lasts.