Restoring a first- or second-generation GM C/K pickup is like reviving a bruiser from the golden era of GM haulers. But too many builds stall out - or worse, miss the mark - because folks overlook the details. Here’s a countdown of the biggest mistakes people make when wrenching on these rigs, so you don’t wind up with a money pit instead of a street legend.
1. Ignoring Frame Rot and Cab Mounts
The drop-center frame that gave these trucks their slick stance is also notorious for rust in all the wrong places - especially under the cab mounts. If you don’t crawl under with a flashlight and poke around, you could end up dropping thousands into shiny paint sitting on Swiss cheese steel.
Above: Here's a 1966 Chevy C10 fleetside that's listed for sale on an online site. One would need to do a thorough inspection for rust and Swiss cheese before purchasing this baby. The lead photo is of a 1972 Chevy C10 Cheyenne gorgeous restomod.
2. Going Too Wild with Suspension Mods
Coil springs gave the C-trucks their silky ride, but some guys yank ‘em out for bag setups or hacked drop kits without thinking about geometry. The result? A truck that looks mean in the driveway but handles like a shopping cart at 50 mph. Slam it smart, not sloppy.
Above and below: Without the aid of airbags or any sort of hydraulics, this 1965 Chevy C10 shortbed fleetside sports the perfect road burner, canyon carving stance and is equipped with the proper suspension and drivetrain bits to make that promise a reality. The details are below (photos courtesy of CI's friends at Mecum Auctions):
Video:1960-1966 First Generation Chevy C10 Details
3. Skipping the Brake Upgrade
If you’re keeping it stock, fine - but if you’re dropping in a small-block or, God forbid, a big-block bruiser like the 454, you’d better give those drums the boot. Disc swaps are easy on ’71–’72 rigs, and aftermarket kits are everywhere. Nothing’s worse than a truck that hauls but won’t stop.
Above and below: Four wheel disc brakes allow this sweet 1970 Chevy C10 to stop sure and short (photos courtesy of Mecum Auctions):
4. Mis-Matched Drivetrain Combos
Throwing a big-block in front of a tired three-speed manual or a peg-leg rear end is like bolting slicks on a tricycle. If you’re upgrading power, beef the trans, driveshaft, and rear axle to match. The 12-bolt rear is your friend here - don’t skimp.
Above and below: This larger than life 1965 Chevy C10 4x4 actually has a well-matched powertrain. One wonders whether the pickup includes a stepladder for climbing inside - or perhaps a retractable drawbridge (photos courtesy of Mecum Auctions):
5. Overlooking Wiring Nightmares
Half a century of farmer fixes, trailer light splices, and duct-tape “engineering” can turn a harness into a fire hazard. Don’t cheap out with a roll of electrical tape - spring for a new harness. Clean wiring isn’t just safe; it makes troubleshooting way easier down the line.
Above: Not where you'd want to roast some marshmallows - photo found online
6. Cutting Up Rare Trim or Bodylines
Those CST badges, Cheyenne trim pieces, or even original grill inserts? They’re worth their weight in chrome these days. Too many folks ditch the factory jewelry for billet or plastic. Don’t hack up what you can’t easily replace - restore it, polish it, or stash it for the next guy.
7. Neglecting Weatherstripping and Glass
Nothing kills a resto vibe faster than a leaky windshield or whistling door seals. These trucks are notorious for rusty cab corners and soggy floor pans, and most of that starts with bad weatherstripping. Replace every seal - your cab (and your feet) will thank you.
8. Forgetting the Bed Floor
Above: What do you choose, wood or steel for your bed floor?
You can have flawless sheetmetal and a thumping V8, but if your bed floor looks like it hauled gravel last week, the truck’s gonna feel unfinished. Wood floor kits are available for the ’60–’66 fleetsides and the later models too. Lay it down right, and your bed becomes a showpiece.
9. Slapping on the Wrong Wheels and Tires
The right rolling stock makes or breaks these haulers. Too big, and you kill the ride. Too small, and it looks like your truck skipped leg day. Stick with period-correct rallys, slots, or steels if you want the classic look—or go custom but keep your stance tight. Don’t let $200 wheels ruin a $20k build.
Above and below: 1968 Chevy C10 shortbed fleetside with American Racing wheels - sublime (photos courtesy of Mecum Auctions):
10. Half-Baked Interior Work
These trucks were pioneers of the “personal pickup,” which means the interior matters just as much as the paint. Too many builds stop at new carpet and a bench cover, leaving cracked dashes, sun-faded knobs, and busted gauges. Go the extra mile—rebuild your dash, polish the trim, maybe even drop in some period-correct buckets. That’s what separates a driver from a showstopper.
Above and below: This is the interior of an exceedingly well restomodded 1968 Chevy C10. Stunning!
The first two gens of GM’s C/K trucks are some of the most rewarding classics you can bring back to life. But if you cut corners—or worse, ignore the common pitfalls—you’ll end up with a rig that looks tough but drives like junk. Do it right, and you’ll have a hauler that turns heads at cruise night, pulls its weight at the swap meet, and still rides smoother than the competition.
Regardless of whether you're renewing a short bed Stepside GMC or Chevrolet pickup, it's a fleetside long bed, or any other sort of configuration, Classic Industries has a great supply of GM pickup components. GM truck owners can shop online for Chevrolet pickups here. Your online shopping for GMC is here.
GM truck owners can supplement the online shopping experience by ordering a free printed Chevrolet/GMC Truck Parts and Accessories Catalog by clicking on the button below.
Above and below: The 1972 Chevy C10 Cheyenne that is the lead photo for this article is so sweet, there's a huge chance that you'd like to see more photos and get the specifics. Here you go (photos and details provided courtesy of Mecum Auctions):