In this final segment of the Camaro restoration, you will at last see the fruits of your labor. For the most part, the reassembly process is a bolt-together operation, especially if most of the parts are either new or already refinished. Hopefully, by this time the majority of exterior replacement parts have arrived and the engine is rebuilt and awaiting reinstallation. If that's the case, the reassembly should move smoothly and quickly.
Reassembling A Legend -1969 Camaro Z/28
Before diving into the reassembly, we recommend that you pick up a Camaro Assembly Manual for your particular model year of Camaro. The manual, available from most Camaro vendors, is a reprint of the original assembly manual used by the assembly line when the cars were being reproduced. The Camaro Assembly Manuals provide detailed drawings of Camaro components and assemblies, such as fuel line routing, engine bracket positioning, exact emblem locations, cowl induction hood details, and Z/28 stripe specifications, plus many more exploded views of Camaro assemblies.
Also, if you can find them, the Chassis Service Manual and Fisher Body Service Manual provide valuable information about reinstalling parts, adjusting window glass, and aligning body sheetmetal. Look for these manuals at automotive flea markets.
Before dropping the engine and bolting on sheetmetal, replace the subframe mounting biscuits, which are sold through Camaro parts vendors. The originals are no doubt flattened, cracked, and worn. And while the subframe is dismounted, pull it away from the body for a thorough cleaning, painting, and detailing. Actually, although we rebuilt the front end in a previous chapter, this is the best time to rebuild the front end components. First, remove the old front end parts, then clean and paint the subframe with a semi-gloss black. When the paint dries, install the new front end parts. That way, the front end will look detailed and factory fresh. However, if you plan to drive your Camaro frequently, all of the extra detailing work will vanish the first time you get caught in a heavy downpour.
Engine detailing falls into this chapter too because it will never be this accessible again. After installing the starter, various brackets, exhaust manifolds, motor mounts, etc., lower the engine assembly into the subframe before reattaching the subframe to the body. By installing the radiator support to the subframe and mounting the radiator, you can fill the radiator with water, attach a battery to the starter, supply fuel to the fuel pump, and crank the engine for the first time before surrounding it with sheetmetal. If there's a problem, you can fix it much easier.
Above: To make our 302 as original as possible, we pieced together an original A.I.R. pump and parts. The pump itself was sandblasted and coated with clear.
During the front end sheetmetal assembly, bolt the components together loosely first. Don't tighten the bolts until all the sheetmetal is installed and adjusted properly. An illustration showing Chevrolet's specified gap tolerances is included in this chapter.
In the case of the early Z/28 Camaros, the stripes make the machine, and after final adjustment of the already painted sheetmetal on a Z/28, you can proceed with the stripe application. Camaro vendors sell a stencil kit to aid in stripe dimensions and placement, plus the dimensions are illustrated in the Camaro Assembly Manuals. On the trunk lid, you should be aware of the factory painting scheme for the rear spoiler. If the Z/28 was factory-equipped with the rear spoiler, the stripe does not continue on the trunk below the back of the spoiler. With dealer-or owner-installed spoilers, however, the stripe does appear behind the spoiler because on non-spoiler Z/28s the stripes ran the entire length of the trunk deck.
When the Camaro is assembled and striped (if necessary for your particular model), you may want to coat the body paint with clear, to give it a deep shine, before installing the various emblems and chrome trim. Color-sanding and buffing, as outlined in the body and paint book mentioned in the painting chapter, may also be required.
During this final segment of your Camaro restoration, a decision must be made regarding tires and shock absorbers. There are many good choices on the market today; in fact, current technology offers better tires and shocks than were available when the 1967-69 Camaros were new. Due to the high prices of some of the better equipment, you may have to compromise. Koni shocks are perhaps the best for handling, but they are expensive. Likewise, a single high-tech radial tire may cost more than a complete set of sixties' belted tires in 1967. For a compromise in performance and price, we recommend a performance shock absorber from one of the reputable manufacturers (Gabriel, Monroe, etc.) and a medium-priced performance radial tire, such as the B.F. Goodrich T/A or the Goodyear S/T.
Regretfully, we were not able to include convertible top replacement here. However, the Fisher Body Service Manuals include a very detailed (about six pages worth) account of how to replace and adjust a Camaro convertible top. Instead of providing a less-than-adequate how-to in this book, we recommend that you pick up a copy of the Fisher manual.
Above: 1) If the Camaro subframe is detached from the body, it can be cleaned with a strong solvent. Scrape and brush heavy deposits of grease and dirt. By turning the subframe in its side, you can clean the underside also. & 2) After rinsing the subframe with water and allowing it to dry, paint the assembly with a semi-gloss black paint. For an all-out show car, the front suspension can be disassembled and detailed out with new brake lines, bolts, etc.
Above: 3) While the subframe paint dries, hang the various engine brackets and pulleys with wire, then paint them with a semi-gloss black paint. By suspending the parts in mid air, it's easier to coat them evenly. 4) Transmissions clean up real nicely with parts cleaner solvent. Use a brush to scrub heavy grease deposits.
Above: 5) If you're reusing the starter, it should be cleaned and then painted with a gloss black paint. Questionable starters should be replaced. 6) Before lowering the engine into the subframe, reattach many of the engine accessory items: starter, brackets, exhaust manifolds, fuel pump, pulleys, etc. For ease of installation, also mount the transmission and motor mounts.
Above: 7) Lower the engine and transmission assembly into the subframe, and install the motor mounts and install the motor mounts and transmission mount bolts. 8) With the engine sitting in place, you can detail it prior to installing the sheetmetal. On our Z/28, we located an original A.I.R. set-up, which included the pump, hose, and these injector tubes.
Above: 9) After a long search, we finally located an original 1969 Z/28 Holley four-barrel carburetor with the correct DZ markings on the air horn. We rebuilt the used carb, then sprayed it with a coat of clear lacquer mixed with bronze color to give it a new appearance. 10) These original-style Z/28 fuel lines are available from the Camaro aftermarket.
Above: 11) With the engine and radiator bolted into the subframe, the engine can be started for the first time. 12) Before remounting the subframe to the body, install new subframe mounting biscuits. They are sold as a kit through Camaro parts vendors.
Above: 13) Move the subframe into position under the body and bolt it into place. 14) With the subframe in place, you can begin the front end sheetmetal assembly. Start by bolting on the wheelwells. Don't tighten the bolts yet because you'll need to adjust the wheelwells during the fender installation.
Above: 15) To protect the doors and fenders during the fender installation, lay several strips of masking tape along the edges. 16) Position the fenders over the wheelwells. You may have to pry the fender wheel openings over the wheelwells.
Above: 17) Install the fender bolts loosely. Use these shims to adjust the rear height (shown) and the door-to-fender gap (lower bolt). Refer to the illustration called Front End Sheetmetal Gap Tolerances to properly gap and install these panels. 18) When the initial upper height and gap tolerances are made, add the proper amount of spacers to the lower fender bolts. Don't tighten the bolts yet.
Above: 19) Install the front header panel. 20) Install the hood latch support assembly.
Above: 21) Reattach the valance panel corners to the main valance panel. 22) Install the valance panel.
Above: 23) New Camaro grilles are readily available, including the Rally Sport grilles with the hidden headlight assemblies. Almost every Camaro restoration will require a new grille.
Above: 24) Install grille emblems, like the Z/28 emblem, before mounting the grille to the front of the car. 25) After installing the grille and the headlight buckets, snap in the upper grille retainer. A row of screws secure the retainer.
Above: 26) Mount the hood hinges to the inner fender. Don't tighten the bolts; once the hood is mounted, you'll have to adjust the hinges.
Above: 27) A helper is required for installing the hood to the hood hinges. Close the hood gently, and make any necessary adjustments. With the hood in position and closed, you can make your final front end sheetmetal adjustments. When the adjustments are made, tighten all bolts.
Above: 28) Install headlights and headlight trim rings.
Above: 29) Begin the Z/28 or Pace Car stripe application by masking off the stripes on the hood. Camaro vendors sell a stripe stencil kit that provides the correct shape for the cowl panel and the proper starting dimensions. Because the cowl induction hood protrudes over the cowl, we removed the cowl panel from the car to mask and paint. 30) Fine Line tape is recommended for stripe masking because it won't leave ragged edges when lifted. To provide the proper spacing for the perimeter pin stripe, two ¼-inch masking strips were applied side by side and the center one was removed.
Above: 31) Make sure your lines are straight, and double-check all measurements before spraying on the paint. Use masking paper (preferred) or newspaper to mask off the fenders and grille.
Above: 32) For a factory-applied look, the stripes should continue on the leading edge of the hood and the corresponding ledge behind the header panel. To mask those areas, cut the outside masking tape and paper with a sharp razor so you can raise the hood. 33) Continue the stripe application on the rear deck lid using a stencil kit to obtain the proper shape and dimensions.
Above: 34) On a Z/28 with the factory spoiler, the trunk stripes continue over the spoiler but do not appear on the trunk lid behind and below the spoiler. However, with a dealer- or owner-installed spoiler, the stripes run the entire length of the trunk lid. 35) After applying the stripes, the entire car can be color-sanded and buffed for gloss. On our project Z/28, we sprayed the car with a clear coat first.
Above: 36) When the paint work is completed, bolt on the exterior chrome; front and rear bumpers, rear bumper guards, etc.
Above: 37) If you replaced the front fenders, the emblem locations must be marked before drilling the required holes. Then install the emblems. 38) Before installing the brand new exhaust system, we sandblasted the pipes and coated them with High Temperature Stainless Steel Coating from The Eastwood Company. The galvanized muffler was installed with its natural finish.
Above: 39) Don't forget the brakes! In a full restoration, it's easy to overlook some of the more mundane maintenance items, so be sure to replace brake pads, brake cylinders, etc. 40) A wide variety of shocks are available from a wide variety of manufacturers. Pick a good shock for your Camaro application.
Above and just below: 1969 302 Z/28 engine and interior photos courtesy of Mecum Auctions
Classic Industries - Your One-Stop Shop for Chevrolet Camaro Restoration, Performance Parts, and Accessories
If you too are a Chevy Camaro owner, whether it's a Yenko limited production model, a Yenko Camaro tribute, or some other variety of Chevy Camaro, you have several ways to find components for your Camaro at Classic Industries. You can explore the digital catalog today by downloading the Classic Industries' Digital Camaro Parts and Accessories Catalog and see how easy it is to find the right parts for your Camaro—faster, smarter, and right at your fingertips.
Above: Showing Camaro headlamp components - See the light! Download your digital Classic Industries' Camaro catalog today!
Should you also wish to have the ginormous printed Camaro Parts and Accessories catalog handy, Classic Industries has you covered.
Classic Industries Camaro Enthusiasts - Yes, There's Always More...
Editor's Note (DBS): Camaro fans - You've reached the end of this chapter book (for lack of a better term) on how to restore your 1st generation Chevrolet Camaro (1967-1969). Classic Industries hopes that these articles (or chapters) have been helpful in understanding what it takes to restore your pride and joy from the subframes up. For reference, below you'll find clickable links to the other chapters:
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Restoring a 1969 Z/28 Camaro: Chapter 1 - Selection and Planning
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Restoring a 1969 Z/28 Camaro: Chapter 2 - Disassembly of the Interior
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Restoring a 1969 Z/28 Camaro: Chapter 2B - Taking Apart the Exterior
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Restoring Your 1969 Camaro Z/28: Chapter 4 - Front End Renewal!
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Restoring A 1969 Camaro Z/28: Chapter 6 - Putting On The Paint
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Restoring A 1969 Z/28 Camaro: Chapter 7 - Reupholstering Seats & Door Panels
